cociana
The Shellfish Tower

Ice, lemon, one hour of theatre

The Shellfish Tower

All year, best September to April · €60 to €180 per guest

Two tiers of ice, oysters opened to order, langoustines cooked that morning, crab picked by hand. The most impressive course in private dining and the one with the least cooking.

The menu

Course by course

  1. 01

    Oysters, two kinds

    Opened to order by someone who can do it fast and cleanly. Six per guest is generous.

  2. 02

    Langoustines or prawns

    Cooked that morning, cooled fast, served cold with mayonnaise.

  3. 03

    Crab

    Picked by hand, dressed simply, served in the shell or in a bowl with bread.

  4. 04

    Clams, cockles, whelks

    The parts guests do not expect, which make the tower look like a coastline.

  5. 05

    Caviar, if the evening wants it

    On the side, over ice, with blinis and crème fraîche.

Preparation

What happens when

  1. Two days aheadOrder by piece count per guest and confirm the delivery hour.
  2. The day beforeIce ordered, mayonnaise made, bread ordered, tiers and bowls counted.
  3. The dayShellfish cooked in the morning, chilled hard, tower built forty minutes before service, never earlier.

Service

How to serve it

One person opens oysters all evening, one refreshes ice and clears shells, and a bowl for empty shells goes on the table from the first minute. Rebuild rather than refill: a tired tower is worse than no tower.

At home

A one tier tower for eight

One good tray on crushed ice beats a rented tower half filled. Buy fewer species and more of each.

  1. Order 48 oysters, 1.5 kg langoustines and 2 cooked crabs, all for collection on the morning.
  2. Cook the langoustines in heavily salted water for ninety seconds, then straight into iced water.
  3. Pick the crab meat by hand, mix the brown meat with a little mayonnaise, lemon and cayenne, and keep both cold.
  4. Build on 4 kg of crushed ice, forty minutes before service, with lemon halves, shallot vinegar, mayonnaise and brown bread.

Editor’s tip: Open oysters in front of your guests, not in the kitchen. An oyster opened twenty minutes early has lost the thing you paid for.

Plan it

Quantities and timing

Formats

Where this menu belongs

Markets

Where it eats best