cociana
The Cheese Finale

Three cheeses, not thirty

The Cheese Finale

All year · €12 to €40 per guest

The course that costs almost nothing to get right and is almost always got wrong: three cheeses at perfect ripeness, bread, one sweet element and a wine that suits them.

The menu

Course by course

  1. 01

    A fresh or soft cheese

    Goat, a young sheep’s cheese, or a burrata if the season allows.

  2. 02

    A hard mountain cheese

    Comté, alpine gruyère or an aged pecorino, at 18 months or more.

  3. 03

    A washed rind or a blue

    One, chosen for the room. Both is one cheese too many.

  4. 04

    Bread, walnuts, honey or quince

    Bread warm, nuts fresh, one sweet thing and no chutney from a jar.

Preparation

What happens when

  1. Two days aheadOrder the cheese by ripeness date. This is the entire skill of the course.
  2. The dayOut of the fridge two hours before service, covered, in a cool room. Never served cold.

Service

How to serve it

Serve as a board to the table rather than plated, with one knife per cheese. After a heavy dinner, one cheese served alone with warm bread is better than three, and much better than a trolley.

At home

One cheese, done properly, for eight

Buy a single 800 g piece of something excellent instead of five small pieces of something ordinary.

  1. Choose one cheese and ask the seller when it will be at its best; buy it for that day.
  2. Take it out of the fridge two hours before serving and keep it covered at room temperature.
  3. Warm the bread, crack fresh walnuts, and put out honey or a quince paste and nothing else.
  4. Serve it with a small glass of something sweet, oxidative or fortified, and let it be the last thing on the table.

Editor’s tip: Cold cheese tastes of nothing. Two hours out of the fridge is the whole recipe.

Plan it

Quantities and timing

Formats

Where this menu belongs

Markets

Where it eats best